Naxi Adventure: Discovering Millennium-Old Dongba Paper and Living Hieroglyphs

A paper that lasts a thousand years, a living pictographic script still in use—Lijiang holds passwords to travel through time.

Imagine a writing system that doesn't use letters or characters, but miniature drawings—a bird for "bird," a fish for "fish," recording the world with brushstrokes. This isn't a child's doodle, but the world's only living pictographic script still in use—Dongba Script.

In Lijiang, you'll be amazed to discover these ancient symbols not only reside in museums but also thrive in streets and alleys, even used by locals for daily notes.

Even more magical is the paper used for this writing—Dongba paper, resistant to insects and the erosion of time, preserving texts for over a thousand years. Join me today in exploring this fascinating intangible cultural heritage in Lijiang.

1. Dongba Script: More Than Just "Pictures"

Walking through Lijiang's ancient town, you'll notice mysterious symbols resembling drawings—this is Dongba Script. The Naxi people call it "Sēnjiū Lǔjiū," meaning "marks on wood and stone."

Sounds primitive, right? But don't underestimate these symbols; they're "living fossils" in the world of writing.

Dongba is a pictographic, ideographic script somewhere between primitive pictorial recording and true linguistic representation. Its charm lies in being "specialized in pictographs—draw a person for a person, an object for an object."

Essentially, draw what you see, depict what it resembles!

Compared to Oracle Bone Script, Dongba is more primitive and pictorial. For example, comparing the character for "eye": Oracle Bone Script is more abstract, while Dongba simply draws an eye.

When recording language, Dongba doesn't write word-for-word but captures the general meaning—similar to our modern mind maps, where keywords suffice.

Even more intriguing is Dongba's flexible arrangement, often following the actual positions of objects in pictorial layouts. For instance, a turtledove must be written above a fence, an arrow held in a person's hand, pointed at the bird.

2. Dongba Paper: An Immortal Legacy Spanning Millennia

What is this mysterious script written on? Equally magical Dongba paper!

The creation of Dongba paper is an ancient craft dating back to the Tang Dynasty and Nanzhao Kingdom. It primarily uses the bark of the local, unique Thymelaeaceae plant (Wikstroemia lichiangensis, called "Ādāngdá" in Naxi).

This plant is slightly toxic, making the paper resistant to insects and decay, preserving texts for centuries.

Making traditional Dongba paper involves over ten steps: collecting raw materials, sun-drying, soaking, steaming, washing, pounding, more pounding, pouring pulp, paper setting, sun-drying, and polishing.

The entire process seems simple but contains wisdom passed down through generations of Naxi people.

I once witnessed Dongba paper-making in a Lijiang workshop: the master repeatedly pounded boiled bark into pulp, poured it into a wooden frame to filter water, gently smoothed it into sheets, sun-dried it on boards, and finally polished it smooth with a river stone. Thus emerged a sheet embodying ancient Naxi wisdom and culture.

3. Hands-On Experience: Be a Naxi Culture Apprentice for a Day

In Lijiang, you can not only watch Dongba paper being made but create your own! Several cultural centers offer Dongba paper-making courses:

At workshops near Black Dragon Pool, under the guidance of Naxi artisans, you'll learn about Dongba paper's sacred role in religious rituals and traditional writing.

Then, make your own Dongba paper using local plant fibers. The process is meditative, deeply rooted in nature and cultural heritage.

You can even decorate your creation with simple Dongba symbols, taking home a meaningful, creative souvenir.

Shuhe Old Town is another great place to experience Naxi culture. As a key stop on the ancient Tea Horse Road, Shuhe retains more traditional Naxi atmosphere.

Its quieter workshops allow you to immerse yourself in this centuries-old craft.

For a comprehensive Naxi cultural experience, visit Xique·Naxi Family Homestead. They offer packaged experiences: from making sweet Naxi wedding cakes to wearing traditional costumes embroidered with sun, moon, and stars; from learning ancient paper-making with Dongba masters to tasting handmade tea—each activity embodies Naxi living wisdom.

4. Cultural Creativity: Taking Millennia-Old Culture Home

Traditionally used for Dongba scriptures, today Dongba paper has been reborn as various creative products.

Strolling through Lijiang or Shuhe, you'll find shops selling lampshades, notebooks, postcards, bookmarks, fans, and photo albums made from Dongba paper.

These products retain Dongba paper's unique texture while incorporating modern aesthetics and functionality.

I particularly love Dongba paper lamps—when light shines through the shade printed with Dongba script, the space instantly fills with warm, mysterious Naxi ambiance.

Dongba bookmarks, exquisite yet compact, are not only reading companions but also portable cultural gifts.

Even better, you can ask local Dongbas (Naxi wise men/priests) to write blessings on your Dongba paper—like "family happiness," "academic success," or "peace and joy." Blessings expressed in millennia-old pictographs make the most meaningful souvenirs from Lijiang.

5. Visiting Dongba Pantheon Garden: Immersive Naxi Culture Experience

Beyond hands-on activities, don't miss Lijiang's newer attraction—Dongba Pantheon Garden. This site promotes Dongba culture, highlighting harmony between humans and nature.

The most stunning feature is the 240-meter-long, 6-meter-wide "Path of Gods" mural, flanked by over a hundred intricate wood carvings, each with its own story.

Against the snow-capped mountain backdrop, these carvings feel profoundly mysterious, vividly recreating Dongba culture.

Additionally, the Dongba pictographic wall, totem poles, "Genesis" relief, and intangible cultural heritage areas further showcase Dongba culture's uniqueness.

The garden offers free parking, free guides, free Dongba paper blessings, and free participation in traditional dances, earning widespread tourist praise.

Here, you can not only appreciate Dongba culture but also join interactive activities like "hanging wind chimes, fulfilling wishes," experiencing Dongba culture's richness immersively.

In a Lijiang Dongba paper workshop, I met an elderly Naxi man pounding bark pulp. He told me, "Every Dongba paper is alive. They carry our memories, traveling from the Tang Dynasty a thousand years ago, continuing into the next millennium."

Today, Dongba paper has transformed into photo albums, bookmarks, fans, lampshades, and other creative products, integrating into modern life.

The Dongba paper I made myself now sits on my desk, inscribed with a Dongba's blessing—two interlinked figures meaning "friendship."

This blessing spanning millennia is perhaps the most precious gift Lijiang offers.